Tuktoyaktuk

Tuktoyaktuk
A small native village in the Northwest Territory of Canada with a population of about 900 has been isolated from the world
forever------until now. In November of 2017 a road was finished and opened to connect Tuktoyaktuk to the nearest town
of Inuvik-------and the rest of the world. Most local people there are happy to see some prosperity come to their town
from all the visitors that will come there-----some are very worried all will not be good.

I rode my 2016 Honda Africa Twin on this ride.
After the ride it had about 24,000 on the clock.
Never a problem one----heck, it's a Honda.
Mosko Moto tankbag and Mosko Backcountry 35 saddle bags.
A simple Pelican case replaced my wolfman soft bag on the tail rack.
And I had a wolfman small expedition bag on the passenger seat for my tent and related stuff.
My idea was that I didn't put anything in the saddle bags that I'd need on a day ride if I decided to tool around
somewhere for a bit without the weight of the bags and what was in them. Same for the bag with my tent in it--I wouldn't
need that on a short day ride.

My riding buddy for this ride is Glen Krause from Kansas. We had never met or rode together.
At the border the guard ask me where I met the guy behind me. I said "on the internet" !!!

Glens bike was a 2017 Africa Twin with the DCT auto transmission.
He never touched his bike on this ride either----total miles on this ride was a little over 5,000 miles.
His bike was pretty much brand new------he packed a bit heavy and after the ride said he could
have left 40lbs. of stuff home. Pretty good really as it was his maiden voyage on the bike.

And here is an old hooligan friend of mine-----Jeff Jonz (Jonz on the AdvRider site).
We met in Baja years ago---and have run into each other many times on rides.
We've ridden together in Montana several times.
He's a tri--athlete and way better of a rider than me.
I think he can run faster backwards than I can forward--------and longer for sure !!!!
He's on his 432 horsepower KTM 1290 which he says he runs in "LOW" power mode.

We started riding in Kalispell, Montana and head for the Going To The Sun road in Glacier National Park.
We knew it would probably be still snowed in and it was.
Skirting around we crossed into Canada on a very small crossing called "Chief Mountain". It's not open 24 hrs.
The road to it was a rough sucker-----or would be on a road bike-----fun on our bikes.
Reading my notes I made during the trip I described the 45mph winds we faced that day---sometimes gusting more.
We had to be very careful how we parked our bikes most of the day so they wouldn't blow over.
My KLIM gloves blew away here and we couldn't find them. I gave up but Glen didn't and found them.

We hit all kinds of weather today.

We crossed at a small border crossing called Chief Mountain.
It was on the Northeast edge of Glacier National Park

I had routed us on a unpaved road East of the divide and East of Jasper and Banff national parks called
the "Forestry Trunk Road".
I thought it might be snowed in ------------and it was.
So off we trudge thru Waterton Glacier international peace park---and then Northwest towards the icefields parkway.

It was about 42° and rained, snowed, sleeted and hailed on us.
It was just intermittent and caused us no concern----made things just more beautiful.
And "NO" mosquitos.

I have no words for this.
The picture looks awesome------------but we were there.

The creek water was from glacial melt and had a weird color to it.
Although you can't see that in our pictures.

We turned off the main road to a glacier viewpoint.

Here is Jonz taking a picture.
It was a bit of a tough hike to get onto the best glacier viewpoint. I looked at the hike on rocks and boulders and
told the guys to get some pictures as I didn't think I had it in me to hike up there.
As I watched Glen and Jeff walk up there I said out loud to myself--------"screw it------if I die doing this---so be it and
off I went and made it.

Left: Jeff Jonz, Mark Sampson, right: Glen Krause

The glacier was just awesome----a lot of foreign tourists up here.

In Jasper we stopped for a late lunch at a cool restaurant on the 2nd floor.
I looked out the window and couldn't believe my eyes----at a stop sign below was a friend of mine on his DR650-----Tim Tew (Tewster).
We ran him down at a gas station later.

We camped at a campground South of town as the motels there were way out of our price range.
It was a very nice nite with no mosquitos.

DAY 3

Tim texted me so we could meet for breakfast at the Tim Horton's in the morning.
But he never showed up. Tim Horton's wanted a Tooney (two dollars) for a coffee refill.
I don't think so---I never heard of such a thing.

I called this a Moose in the video---------dummy me.
It's an Elk.

This guy was "King Duck"
He had the whole place to himself.

Arrived in Chetwynd after riding North on 97 and there were some really cool wood carvings at the entrance to town.
We never hung around town---but stopped to look at these.

North of Chetwynd we camped on Moberly Lake.
And hardly any mosquitos.

I think for $5 we had a nice gal bring us plenty of firewood.
Glen had brought an axe and we split the wood into small pieces.
It is prudent I check in with my wife often to make sure everything is OK at home.

Day 4

We headed out early and crossed many bridges.
We would end up in FortNelson this afternoon.

We saw a couple hundred black bears---------and 8 grizzlies.
My first trip up here which was in much more remote areas we saw no grizzlies.

I do believe this is in Fort Nelson, British Columbia.
Jeff only rode with us for 2 days as he had obligations.
He teaches people how to ride motorcycles.
Wish he'd teach me !!!

Here's a short video of the ride so far.
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Day 5

Glen had never seen a moose and said that seeing one would be the highlight of this trip----------BINGO !!!
When you see a big moose going in a definite direction---------don't get in his way.
He will stomp you into the dirt.

Looks like Glen picked up one of those awful BigDogAdventures stickers somewhere along the way.
Heck I didn't even have one.
Well I did---------but the skeeters beat it off----the sticker was only good for 1 million skeeters.

After motelling it in Fort Nelson that night----we headed for breakfast and those famous cinamon rolls this place is famous for.

And Hats.

Somewhere on the road I passed this guy and took his picture---he became our friend for a couple days.

Then there were three.

I think this is Mucho Lake---------never been here---I noticed lots of nice camping thru this area.

We let this guy have his space.
He could take all the time he needed to get across the road.

This is Tappen. First Motorcycle------first motorcycle trip----------23 years old.
He was riding a Suzuki 650 V-Strom.

People at road construction were always so nice and let motorcycles to the front all the time to avoid the dust.

We passed these guys back and forth many times hauling their dualsorts up here.

The town of Watson Lake---home of the Sign Forest.

Met this nice lady in the forest.

We camped on Watson Lake.
We had crossed into the Yukon--------home of the nicest campgrounds and "FREE" fire wood.
Glen had the neatest tent---------it was a 3 man and I really liked it.
I had an oversize 2 man REI tent I just bought------it worked out great too.

Free firewood in the Yukon-----$10 to camp.
I kept the fire going all night and the next morning made myself a cup of coffee with my Jet-Boil and used
my favorite cup my son got me. It's stainless and insulated with a caribiner handle.
I never seen anything like it---------and it had my logo on it. Thanks Marty !!!!!

Day 6

We made it too Carmacks this day----I so wanted to ride the the lower canal road---------but it was mudded in -----so said the locals.
But first------------I'm guessing breakfast was had here.

2 Moose in the lake.

I think this is the Teslin River bridge.
It has a metal grate to ride on------a little squirrely for some people---but not for 2 old dirt bikers.
Stand up and gas it.

Lot's of travelers out and about.
I found it fun to chat with folks and hear their tales.
Mostly people had questions for us.
Man those big rigs took a beating on the Alaskan Highway.

Tappen was still hanging with us.

The day ended for us in Carmacks, Yukon and we got a nice little cabin on the river.

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Day 7

We left our motel in Carmacks with all intentions of riding into Dawson City for the nite.
And leaving the ride on the Dempster highway and TUK for the next day.
A lot of bridge are made like this with a wood floor.
I'm sure there is a reason for this construction method.

Past this fellow on a 250 Kawasaki.

We got to the turn off for the Dempster Highway and got gas.
We just turned North thinking we could get all the way to Eagle Plains today in good weather-------without running out of gas.
It sounded good and we were anxious--------and we rode into hell.
Our bikes could go 242 miles on a tank of fuel---------but it was 243 to Eagle Plains ?????
Talked to these guys a bit---they were headed up the Dempster---I think they made it to Eagle Plains that day.

Well it was nice when we started and I remember Glen saying "Heck, this is a super highway---what's all the fuss"
It's not getting dark at nite now this far North--------------hell, maybe we should just ride all nite--------I mean "day" !!!

As you turn North on the Dempster Highway you cross this very narrow bridge.
It's 244 miles to Eagle Plains---------500 to Inuvik---and another 90 to Tuk-------will we make it ????

Later it rained and poured----harder and harder--------------------then much harder.
We couldn't see and the rode turned to muck. The fog rolled in with it.
We could barely see the road in front of us and my glasses and face shield fogged up so bad I was riding bare eyed.
Then these big ass bikes began slipping around. Bad-----------first the rear-------then the front.
I did not want to high side on this monster. I tensed up and thought we should turn back as I was afraid we were going to
have to pick up our bodies and bikes seveal times if we kept on.
But guess what--------we didn't have near enough gas to go back--------so we had to go on.
Rainsuits and KLIM gear couldn't keep out the water.........we slid into the Eagle Plains lodge very distressed---or at least I was.
We were completely soaked to the bone and covered with mud. The parking lot at the lodge was a potholed mudfest.
I trudged into the Lodge with my credit card in hand ready to kill anybody who got in my way to secure a room.

Got a room after shoving some guys out of the way (not really---I made that up) and then we were told the restaurant was just
closing--------we hadn't ate since that morning and were starving. I snuck an apple pie out of the pie case and scarfed it down
as that would have to do till morning.

I found this picture on the AdvRider site by accident. I didn't take the picture and that's not my bike.
But that is me trudging into the Eagle Plains lodge in the rain, fog and muck.
Thanks for the picture whoever you are.

And it was that evening we starting hearing terrible tales of people trying to get to Tuk.
Tales of Muk----picture below------tales of broken bones----of people getting air lifted out---of people abandoning their bikes and vehicles.
People spending the nite in the muk inder a tarp. It sent chills down my spine.
Then the straw that broke the camels back-----they closed the road.
Mind-----you many got to TUK before us and after us------but not in the time frame we were there.
It was just unbelievale how quickly the road could change.
One minute Jimmy Lewis couldn't make it---------next minute a one legged blind guy with a Harley and side car with flat tires slides into TUK !!!!

The hallway to our room.
We strung everything out to dry in our room---------------it didn't.

Day 8

What it looked like the next morning out our motel room window.

Options: stay here for however long it took at $200 a night and wait for it to dry out.
Give it a go, break a leg and get air lifted out on the TUK road if we made it that far.
Or head back and use the excuse the road was closed----------yeh---that sounds good.

This lone bicyclists heads North into the oblivion.

Mud and standing water everywhere at the Eagle Plains lodge.

So we gassed up in Eagle Plains-------the local attendant warned us not to go North-----I nodded.
And off we went with almost no visibility in the rain and blowing fog. We had all day to get to Dawson City.
I told Glen I'm riding as slow as need be to get there unhurt.

The fog blew across the road with a 45mph wind and after about 50 miles started to lift.

And it was a glorious ride to Dawson City.
After all is said and done me and Glen were only miserable on this whole ride for 4 hours.

My cockpit on my bike.

This park was along the way.

This couple driving the 4-wheel drive Subaru had a harrowing tale of the TUK road.
We ran into this nice couple several times later----they made it to TUK.
He was an Adv rider himself but took his wife to TUK.
They made it several days before we got there and he said his Subaru was sliding all over the TUK road and he knew
they were going to slide off in the ditch----------but didn't. Finally his wheels wouldn't turn and he had to find a stick
to dig the mud out from the wheel wells of his car.
He said the road was highly crowned in the middle and the consistency of axle grease.

The muk we rode on the day before was already being worked on.

We blew into Dawson City and got the last room in town.
It was a very simple room---but was nice and clean.
The very famous D2D adventure rally was too start here in a few days.
I was really hoping to not be here during the event------it's just too busy for me.
Cool part of this place-----he had a pressure washer all set up behind the motel to get the worst of the muk off your bike.

Downtown Dawson City
Google it-----------you can read for years about the history of this place.
I'm not putting all that on this story.

We had breakfast here.

We watched these hang gliders land .

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Day 9

To go West to Chicken Alaska and cross the border at Pole Creek, Alaska you have to cross the Yukon river on this ferry.
It's free------------I luv free.

The famous Top Of The World Highway heading West out of Dawson City

Border Crossing Into Alaska.
"You must have's zee papers----where are your papers"
Don't mess with the border people and have your papers ready-----they like that.
And don't joke with them.
And "DON'T" put your passport in your mouth------they don't like that and you'll get an ass chewin'.

After the border crossing we met this nice guy on a 300 Kawasaki-----------he was on a much bigger ride than we
were and was having a ball as you can see in his smile.

So after the magnificent ride on the TOW (Top Of The World) highway we land in chicken.
Buk---buk---buk buk buk.
History says the name of the town was originally "Ptharmigan"---------but nobody could spell or say it---including me.
So "Chicken" it is.

You can buy stickers, gifts, food and gas here.

Across the lot was this restaurant----------nobody is there.
You help yourself to everything then go back to the store and tell them what you got and pay for it.

Cool dredges all over the place
Thanks to Glen for all these pictures.

If you sneak out of Chicken without paying for the food you ate across the parking lot---this chicken will hunt you down
and peck your eyes out.

Glen took this picture-------I think it's the "old" town of Chicken.

Union Pipefitter

Swinging walking bridge in Chicken

I had to pee-------we stopped here-----read that small sign at the bottom of the picture.

Seems we got a motel in Destruction bay for the nite.
Don't remember what we did here-------------probably et'--------ey'

Our Motel

Day 10

This rider killed a few mosquitos on his ride.

These 2 bears are grizzlies.
I kept the bike running and in 1st gear-------or so I thought.
When I went to take off I was in 3rd and stalled the bike-------they could have had me.

Teslin River Bridge ????

This was a dust storm---we saw this a long way off and just couldn't figure out what it was until we were upon it.

This gal was such a hoot !!!!
Talked the whole time-----about her and her husband going to Mexico each year---this was just a summer job for her.
We met her going up-------------and coming back. These stops could last for a half hour sometimes.

The black bear just eats berries and stuff--------unless you get between her and her cubs.
The grizzly wants to eat you-----straight away mate..................eh ??

I remember stopping once and seeing Glen wander off into the bush.
I bet this is what he saw.

Glens new desktop picture.
Yeh, this is going to look good on facebook Glen.

We spent the nite at the Junction of the Alaska highway and the Cassiar highway at a place called "Nugget" I think.
Holy crap---------grumpy people and the worst nite of the trip--------at least for Glen.
We got a super---super---super small cabin for $100 with nothing in it but to tiny beds---that's it.
It was hot------no AC---------we talked them into an oscillating fan-------that saved the day for me.
I slept for 10 hours straight. Glen never slept at all--------said the skeeters ate him up all night long as we had to leave
the window and door open to move air thru the cabin ?????

This was the last picture I took with my camera---as I left it here.

A very lucky chain of events happened to get my camera back.
This is hard to believe---but somebody found my camera and took it to the Royal Canadian Mounted police in Whitehorse, Yukon.
They left a note saying what they did.
I had posted on social media (AdvRider) that I lost my camera---somebody had found the note and saw my message
and let me know that it was in Whitehorse.
I called the RCMP (after getting home) and described my camera and they said they had it and would send it to me.
They ask me where I lost it----and I told the girl to look at the last picture (the one above).
She knew right where that was----anyway--I got my camera back.
What nice people-----I was so grateful and thanked them so much.
Wish I could thank the person who found my camera. A very nice act of kindness.

Day 11

The Bell II lodge, restaurant and cabins.
We had a gatorade here-----got gas and headed South on the Cassiar Highway----also Hwy. 37.

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