2008 Yamaha WR250R
This Page Last Updated May June 17th, 2010
On this page--you find all the mods I've
done to my bike----I'll be updating things as I own the bike.
And down at the bottom of the page you may find some updated info and maintenance
I've done.
After owning the bike for a couple years now---I've found
absolutely no warts or faults of the bike.
Not even something I would like to change.
I've taken 3 big trips on it----a 2,500 mile---a 1,700
mile and a 1,200 mile.
The rest of the 8,500 miles is shorter rides that never gets on my website.
The only thing I've noticed to watch for if you don't know
how to adjust the chain correctly.
I don't follow the owners manual anymore for adjusting the chain--I leave
it quite a bit looser.
If you adjust the chain to tight----it will cut into your swingarm--I know
one guy that it cut into the swingarm
needle bearings and he had to have it re-welded. It was either that or buy
another swingarm.
The swingarm pivot point is lower than the Countershaft on this bike--not
so with most bikes.
Just a little thing to watch out for. He said the previous owner had the chain
too tight and when the suspension bottomed
it would pull the chain right into the bottom of the swingarm.
Check you rubber guide around the swingarm carefully and
keep an eye on them.
New one on the left--my old one on the right---they are upside down in the
picture. If your's don't look like
like the one on the left---you are awaiting disaster. If you are checking
you guide for wear and the bottom of the guide doesn't
come all the way to the front of the swingarm----it is worn out and you may
be digging into your swingarm---probably are.
I've been running my chain looser than the manual says and so far the chain
is not wearing on my guide at all.
If you've put on a 12 tooth countershaft sprocket ????
GET IT OFF !!!!
This will only aggravated this "potential" problem----you'll be
better off to work with the back sprocket for gearing changes.
Guides are upside down in this picture--they wear on the bottom--not the top.
This is a new bike for Yamaha----and an
extremely unusual one---I think anyway.
The huge difference in this bike from others of similar purpose is that it
is fuel injected.
It is built street legal from the factory. There were a few things that attracted
this bike to me.
First being it is so much lighter than
anything I have, second is it's extremely wide 6 speed transmission,
third was it's unbelievably powerful 350 watt alternator, fourth was it's
very long term reliablity and
service intervals---first valve check is 26,000 miles--oil
changes are 3,000 miles. This is not a re-done WR250F motor at all.
First look you would think so--but this engine is so different.
This bike runs 65-70mph with ease--hard to believe but it does--and it's not wound out at all.
A big downfall to owning a fuel injected
bike is the gas tanks are too small for me--as this one
is only 2 gallons------BigDog no likey !!!!! A 3.5 gallon "Safari"
tank is made by Aqualine in
Australia----when I found this was available I pulled the trigger
and bought the bike---I would have never bought it if it wasn't for a bigger
tank being available, as
no matter how good the bike is---I had to have more range. This will give
me a minimum range of 240 miles.
70 and even 75 mpg has been coaxed out of these bikes---initially I'm getting
60 mpg though.
I did not want to carry gas anywhere except in the gas tank.
It takes up to much packing space--is somewhat unsafe--and puts the gas weight
where I don't want it.
For me----there will be no need for aftermarket
exhaust, or fuel programming changes,
or brake and suspension mods. The seat is much wider and more comfy than many
bikes---such as
any XR, XR650R, XR650L Suzuki DRZ400, or any Husqvarna TE model------so, it
will be fine.
The suspension is already fully adjustable and is much better than I am a
rider.
Well here it is--before I started screwing
with it---put all kinds of crap on it---got it
dirty and just ran the dog crap out of it.
Here it is done after all the mods you can read about below.
Bottom line on the gas tank---3.6 gallons--I ran it 101 miles after the low
level light came out till it ran out.
It started sputtering at 227 miles and I shut if off and poured some gas I
was carrying in it.
So it will go easy over 200 miles. This was with the innacurate stock speedometer.
Most people I read about are using this as a street legal dirt bike----it
is a superb bike for this.
My mods lean toward long distance multi--week adventure rides across the country.
My mods probably don't suit you weekend dirt bikers----I did that for 30 years
and have moved over to adventure riding now.

I'll chronicle by list of mods that I am doing to this
bike.
Most of these mods are the same ones I've done to every dual sport bike I've
ever owned.
First mod was the addition of "Hot Grip" brand of heated grips.
These come with a low and high switch
and are very fat---I like the bigger diameter as they are just easier to hold
on to and cut down
on hand fatique. These are model #475-875 which are 4 3/4" in length--be
sure and order their epoxy to
glue them on as ordinary quick set epoxy won't hold up.
About $130 and available Here
I cut the old grip off and cut out the white plastic end
of the throttle tube as I will be adding handguards
in the very close future.I had to move my controls in about 1/2" so the
heated grips don't overhang the handlebars.
Listen up
BigDog has been there and done this---and consulted
heated grip manufacturers---don't put heated grips (any brand) on fat
aluminum bars--not unless you don't want maximum heat anyway----the aluminum
will soak up your wanted heat quite a bit.
I have them on my 950 which has fat bars and I don't like it.
This is an aluminum plate I fabricated and mounted the
heated grip switch and resistor to.
I will mount this plate to one of the handlebar clamp bolts--nice and handy.
I tapped into the gray (I think) wire that feeds the high
and low beam switch on the handlebars.
Do not tie into a wire at your headlight--this will throw an
additional load on your high low beam switch--and also your grips will only
work on high or low beam---whichever
you tied it into. After my tie in I ran wires up behind the speedo to the
handlebars and put on
ordinary 2-prong trailer plugs. I will plug my heated grips into one and my
gps into the other.
The light circuit I tied into is 15 amps--and after running the headlight
there is plenty of power left to run my heated grips and gps. I have about
7 amps leftover.
Here you can see the 2 SAE 2-prong trailer plugs that I brought up to power
the grips and gps.
The cool thing about this circuit is---it is only hot "AFTER"
you start the engine.
The headlight on this bike only comes on after the bike is running----pretty
cool !!!!
Here you can see my gps---a Garmin 276C on a touratech
mount.
To the left of the GPS you can see my heated grip switch.
3 position---off, low and high. I put a rubber boot over it later on to keep
water out.
A Garmin 276C will run your battery dead in a day or two because of the re-chargeable
battery in it---this was not
a problem for me as I wired into a circuit that was only hot when the engine
is running. Perfect.
When the key is off--no power can go to my heated grips or gps---this was
so simple to wire it up
this way and there was nothing to buy.
Side view--the hot grips are installed and all wired up--but
the handguards are not on yet.
I ordered my heated grips with open ends to facilitate the handguard installation.
These mirrors may have to go---I may put on some that can be folded down and
are more moveable--I don't
want the clutch perch to bust in a crash--after all she's been on the ground
everytime I've rode it !!!!
Here's a good shot of both my Wolfman "Enduro"
tank bag and the plug (Widder brand) for my heated clothing.
I use this bag on all 4 of my bikes.
This tank bag is available Here
For about $80.
And this one comes with a rain cover.
This is definitely a "BigDog" custom mod.
I wired this switch into the low beam headlight wire "only" so I
can turn off my headlight---why you ask ????
To be incognito sometimes !!!! And, to reduce power consumption if need be.
And if johnny law pops up real sudden---I can just hit
the high beam and show him I do have lights.
This particular switch didn't last very long at all (water got to it)---I
replaced it with a waterproof switch which is available
from the same place I got my hotgrips-----not cheap-------$15 a wack--but
nice smaller switch requiring only a 1/4" hole.
To the left is the growing pile of stuff I've determined
I just didn't need----and to lose weight.
However I'm probably going to add more weight than I take off !!
Why don't I just go on a diet ????
The Cycra Pro-Bend bars are to the right.
I had this brand new set of Cycra Pro-Bends laying around
as I tried to put them on my KLR--that was
a no go with the KLR fairing. I ordered triple tree front mounts for the KLR
but had to re-order triple tree
side mounts for the WR. I won't mount handguards to the handlebars---to difficult
and usually the handlebars
are way to cluttered anyway. I had to bend these aluminum handguards a little
to get them to line up.
This is not an easy thing to do because they are so thick. I heat them up
a little--not to hot as aluminum
can go molten in the blink of an eye---and hit them with a rubber hammer while
they were mounted
firmly in a vise----no problem-o
Thats "no problem" for you gringo's !!!!!
These can be bought HERE
Lots of options for colors and mounts---be sure you order what you want.
About $130
Here is a close-up of the triple tree side mounts that Cycra sells.
I ran the stock tires on my first 2,500 mile trip--they
did fine but aren't very aggressive of course.
I was able to do very good in some mud because the bike is so lite--my buddy
on a heavier bike had to turn around.
The trailwings on the bike are not what I will run while I own the bike. I
could care less if a tire is DOT approved
or not----but I need a rear tire that will last at least 3,000 miles---that
forces a rider to select a DOT tire.
The tire on the right will go on the rear and is a DOT approved Dunlop 120/90
18" 606.
I never used the Dunlop 756 in the picture--I use a 606 on the front.
I even ran a Kenda K270 450/18 on the rear
for a very long ride that I expected to be about 5,000 miles. It worked very
well---I'll probably keep one on hand.
Well JoJo my dog---let out a screeching howl---letting
me know the UPS truck was here. Good Boy JoJo.
Ricochet Skidplate from Utah Sport cycles and tailight--turn signal replacement
kit.
I kid you not-----I slit open the plastic bag the skidplate
was in and got a 10mm socket out
and 1 minute later this baby was mounted on the bike. No screwy clamps---bolted
right in to existing
mounting points on the bike. How cool is that.
This skidplate is available Here
For about $90
OK----all this has got to go-----it'd be great on my KLR--but not on this light thing.
First thing I had to do was take the seat, sidecovers and
rear fender.
I thought oh no---this will take a while----2 minutes later it was all on
the ground
So far this thing is so easy to work on.
And this is what I replaced the stock turn signals, tailight,
brake light and license plate light with.
Everything is LED. From DRC I do believe.
I spiced the wires in hear using soldered connections and
heat shrink tube.
No crimp connections or black tape on BigDogs bikes.
The wiring splice is done.
Finished product---and it worked !!!!
The LED light kits I bought for this bike are available
Here
About $130 buck for the tailight assembly and all 4 blinkers.
Yes it does throw a little muck on my tailbag now--not bad tho.
Here is where I routed my Widder heated clothing thermostat to----really handy.
Front turn signal---this has got to go.
Be nice on my KLR or a big Beemer--not on this bike tho.
Thumbs Down
Thumbs Up
Led Turn signal is so much smaller and pretty much out of harms way for getting
broke.
I bought a special realy to work with LED's as they now flash faster with
the stock relay.
But---as for now I'm not installing it, as I kind of like the way they work.
I really like this rack---it's the OEM one from Yamaha--about
$140.
Not to big and has really nice and handy tie down points and I was
able to keep the OEM helmet lock.
Wolfman makes a really nice tailbag that is shaped just
like this rack.
I think I have to have one. It's available HERE
About $110
The frame on the Yamaha is part aluminum and part steel.
The main frame is aluminum but thankfully the subframe
is steel----it will hold up much better than aluminum.This thing is perfect
for this bike--Yamaha really done
an exceptional job with this thing. In this picture it looks like the rack
is not supported in the back---it is tho.
Didn't know BigDog used to ride a Harley did you---yep---wife painted that
on my shop door in 1975.
Bike with most mods done--I really like this bike a whole
lot better than my Husqvarna TE610.
I had no intention of selling my 610 when I bought this bike. After about
200 miles I knew I'd never ride the
Husky again---people riding 650cc bikes may never agree with me--or even give
a bike like this
and 2nd look---but I'm telling you this bike is that good.
Anything even resembling technical or rough terrain the Yamaha breezes thru
it so much easier and faster than
the Husky. Yes faster--much faster. And 70mph is so easy--seems more relaxed
than the Husky----can't
believe I'm saying that. I fully intend to do the same kind of long distance
offroad adventure travel on this bike
that I did on my Husky---it will be easier and a hell of a lot more fun.
I may do a lot of things to this bike---but I won't do one thing that makes
it even the tiniest bit louder.
I've been around a long time---I've seen upfront and personal what noise has
done to our sport.
Nobody may ever tell you that your bike annoys them---that doesn't mean it
doesn't.
So many people are doing it they come to think it's OK----same with the "F"
word---people throw that
word around like it's OK-------it's "not".
My dog was barking like crazy---thought he was going thru
the front door---UPS was Here !!!!
Good Boy JoJo !!!!!
I had ordered some dirt Bagz and racks for this bike---really
nice that the aftermarket is making stuff for this bike.
I had let my old bags go with the Husky 610 so bought new ones---one set of
racks but both sizes of bags
so I could pack according to the trip demands. The "Scouts" are
the small ones and the "Rangers" are the bigger ones.
You have to remove the seat and fender to install or remove the right side
mount----I didn't like that at all.
Why you ask ???? A bolt goes up thru the subframe and there
is a nut on the top that can only be accesed
by taking the fender off------so BigDog welded the nut to the subframe and
now I can remove and install this
bolt from under the subframe with no problem.
I made 2 small tacks on the nut to keep it in place.
Right bracket installaton is done, Now on to the left side.
The left side would be a quick no brainer to install if
you hadn't installed the Yamaha OEM rack.
You would just have to remove the footpegs and helmet lock and bolt it up
with 2 simple bolts.
With the rack on there.... the bag bracket hits the rack and it's impossible
to bolt it up.
I cut about 1" of the tubing off and welded the tab back on in a position
that it would bolt to
the outside of the OEM rack-----genius.....I thought to myself !!!!!!
"I'm not totally without skills"
Here I am just tacking the tab in place in the proper position.
Then I remove the whole bag bracket and took it to the vise for final welding.
Then it was off to my hermetically sealed dust-proof paint booth.
Finshed----eat your heart out !!!
The rear of the rack is now about 1" lower than it was designed ....but
this is not noticeable at all
and caused no problem. You cannot mount or use the helmet lock now.
These racks are not design to hold "ANY" weight---the straps over
the seat take the weight of
what's in the saddlebags---these racks just merely hold the bags off the bike
and exhaust.
They may seem spindly to you-----but do the job and do it well--they are all
they need to be.
Here is the bracket all mounted up.
It would take about 3-5 minutes to put the mounts on or
off now---without removing
anything. The right side mount is a little more fiddly as it has 2 mounting
tabs
on the rear of it.
These racks and bags are available Here
The small bags with racks are $205 and with the big bags they are $248.
This thing was just weighing me down and slowing me down--AIS or something the other ???
After removing it you have to plug where it connects to
the airbox---I just used a rubber slip on cap
available at any automotive supply.
For capping off the connection to the exhaust port you have to put a plate
over the hole. I just used the
stock flanged--cut the steel tubing off---pinched it together with my vise
and use my wire welder again
to weld it shut and bolted it back on. Don't lose the gasket--mine fell into
the skidplate and I couldn't find it
for a while.
I just received my Wolfman Peak Tailbag which I have hope
would fit this rack.
I'm beyond words----it seems it was made for this bike----it wasn't designed
for this bike----but it is perfect--well almost.
Look at how the steel hooks that were made to hook under a seat just hook
in the OEM Yamaha rack !!!!!!
The bag is expandable but is shown here unexpanded. It has cinch straps inside
and a mesh zippered
storage pouch---it's nice--very well made. I have a lot of respect for wolfman
products.
An accessory rain cover is available for it.
$110 available Here
I had to turn the hooks out instead of in so they would
hook on my tailrack.
When I was done the bag just wouldn't pull tight enough to suit me so I shortened
the hooks about 1/4" each
Here you can see the original on the right and the one I shortened on the
left---My little wire welder
came thru for me again. It was off to my hermetically sealed, windproof, environmentally
friendly, ecological
sensitive paint booth for a little rattle can paint job !!!!!
Here is a cut and welded clip before painting and how it will fit in the tailrack loops.
I put this non slip stuff which I guess is made for kitchen
shelves under any tailbags I have.
this makes it much less prone to slipping around and makes a much more stable
load.
I showed my dirtbagz mounts--but not with the bag on--these
are the smaller scout bags.
I bought the bigger ranger bags too--just in case. They'll fit on the same
rack.
This picture is very interesting----guess what's in the bag?????
Hint---I don't have my big gas tank yet !!!!!
A Kolpin 1 1/2 gallon ATV plastic gas container.
Now I can carry 3 1/2 gallons of fuel and have a range of about 240 miles.
OK---I can now go where I want to go--in the manner I want
to.
I don't like the gas in my dirt bagz--but it will have to do for now.
My small sleeping bag fits right in front of the tailbag---and
although it may look like it's in my way---it's not at all.
The left bag is full of gas--but I have the right saddle bag, tailbag and
tank bag to put stuff in.
I suppose some of you (maybe the younger crowd) or wondering
what the hell am I doing.
You can't race and roost around nasty single track in deep mud slamming into
trees and
just ripping thru the woods on this thing--you've got to much crap on it and
have it geared
way too high----what are you thinkin' BigDog ?????
You have to understand----I use to race for years---was
pretty good at it and won the last hare
scramble I raced-----I'm 58 years old--I am no longer interested in that.
Going for a day ride in the local forest
just isn't what I built this bike for--I had fun racing and it made me a better
rider no doubt--but
adventure touring is what trips my trigger now.
Meanwhile my dog JoJo is on point waiting for the UPS truck----I
need more-----stuff !!!!!
Nothing gets by JoJo. If a mouse farts---he knows it.

He has 2 points of surveylance
Good Boy JoJo
Rear shot of the mounts.
In January 2009 I rode this bike on a 1,700 mile unsupported
ride in New Mexico and Arizona.
The bike was flawless and did whatever I asked of it. It had about 2,350 miles
on it after this trip.
Here it is in the Arizona desert.
This nice lady is bringing me more stuff.
Yes she has my new gas tank !!!
I love this woman who brings me stuff.
I don't know why JoJo doesn't like the UPS person---I mean.....what's
not to like ????
He always lets me know when he sees the big brown truck !!!
Good boy------JoJo !!! Let's get a treat !!!!

Ok the UPS lady finally showed up with my 4 gallon clear
Aqualine Gas Tank that I've had
ordered for 8 months---this is the final mod I want to do to the bike. I've
research a lot of mods for this bike.....
some I liked---some I didn't---I have it built for what I want out of the
bike.
I'd been gone awhile and my wife had all my stuff piled up in my shop---I
had also ordered new
tires for my KLR--some parts for it---and a Zero degree big agnes sleeping
bag (for my
planned Alaska trip on the KLR.
I ordered a clear (natural if you like) tank so I could
see my gas and know exactly how much I have.
I see guys fussing on the net as to what color tank to get ??---I could care
less, as I am only concerned about function.
I can see how much gas I have or don't have with the clear tank and it protects
my radiator.
A lot of guys are carrying gas in different ways to go long distance--I did
once cause I had too.
I'm not happy carrying gas elsewhere on the bike----it adds another eliment
of danger and also takes up
very valuable packing space on a bike where packing lite is essential.
I threw the tires into the pile---and proceeded to the
task at hand----
Getting the gas tank installed.
While I was gone I had my WR250R and KTM 570EXC chained
together.
I really don't think they like each other---but were forced to share the space
!!!
One thinks he is faster (he is)--the other knows the tortuoise will pass the
hare--eventually.
I'm not going into the exact install--it was easy and I
just followed the instuctions.
Here is the stock fuel tank mounted to my new fuel tank.
The fuel in the lower lobes of the tank are way to low to be used---so Aqualine
mounted a vacuum fuel pump
in the tank to suck gas from the lower lobes to the fuel pump. Getting large
tanks to work with fuel injection
is a challenge--and I think aqualine found a workable solution. The pump runs
off of vacuum of the engine air intake
and I tapped into a port just downstream of the throttle body. I didn't tee
into this vacuum line as per the instructions
as I had modified (eliminated) some of the stock vacuum tubing.
Here is a good view of the fuel connector and the electrical
connector that must be attached to the fuel pump.
This whole install took me about 2 hours--but I took things really slow and
careful so as not to screw things up.
My only problem I ran into was the rubber pad on the frame
rails you see below had to be trimmed down a little
as the tank was to high in the front to bolt it down--a little trimming with
a razor knife and all was well.
Do not remove the rubber--that wouldn't be a good idea having the tank rubbing
on the bare frame.
This is the vacuum line that comes out of the tank and
goes to the vacuum pump inside the tank.
The other end hooks to a vacuum port downstream of the throttle body.
I've pondered putting a valve in this line so the pump is not working all
the time---it really only needs
to run when fuel is really low.
All fit up and done.
Little Dog wants to go--what a pain little dog is---always
wanting to go, go, go !!!!
Where'd he get that from ???
I loaded the bike on my trailer and hauled it to town and
filled the tank to the top.
3.66 gallons is it----I am expecting to get a couple more tenths of a gallon
in there after the tank
swells out a little.
When I first filled the tank I marked each gallon so I
would always know exactly how much fuel I have left.
All worked out well and I'm a happy camper.
So now the bike is completely done to my satisfaction.
I now have an over 200 mile range.
You may have notice I have ignored a whole lot of mods some others have done.
I have no desire for more power or noise.
I have no desire to upgrade the suspension--it's perfect for me.
I don't see me doing anything else to the bike except riding it.

Maybe Colorado or New Mexico-------forgot.
Maintenance and On-going Stuff
I have no problem going 3,500 miles between oil changes if I have to-----but
so far it's been convenient to change it earlier.
I put 5 wt. fork oil in the front forks------BigDog likes !!!!
I've greased the swingarm, shock lnkage and head bearings once---didn't really
need it---but glad to know it's OK.
I've tried different gearing but for a long ride I still prefer stock. It's
been said it won't pull 6th or maybe even 5th
going up a steep hill and you should gear down.
Well----it's much simpler to just tap your gearshift-------duh ????? And you
still got 5th and 6th when you can use it.
Most people gear it down--I can understand that---but most are not using the
bike in the manner I am.
I'd definitely gear down if 1st is not low enough for your riding. I find
1st plenty low for my riding. YMMV---a lot !!!
I got a dirt bike---this is my long distance offroad adventure bike.
I thought the motor had a rod out of it for along time......holy
crap was it getting noisy !!!
The skidplate was the culprit. I just cleaned under and retightened it.
If you didn't know---I sold my DRZ400S and bought a Husky TE610 to replace
it-----then bought this to replace
the Husky--------no regrets at all. I can ride this bike faster and easier
in most instances.
Not that I'm in a hurry-----------just sayin'...................as they say
!!!!
It'll will go slow too-----if you so chose.
I've ran my heated grips in conjuction with my heated vest, heated arms chaps
and heated gloves (widder brand) with no problems.
It holds the battery voltage better than my KLR---my old TE610 did this very
well to I must say---it had
a very good charging system.
Head, swingarm and shock linkage bearings.
I completely dis-assembled my swingarm and shock lingage
bearings at about 6,000 miles ??
they were really OK---I added some grease---nice to know everything is OK
there.
At 8,500 miles I checked my head bearings---good thing---the upper bearing
was almost dry of grease.
Failure of this bearing was close. I greased it with Bel-Ray waterproof grease
and all is well.
I have found that this is typical of all bikes.
I do not want to have to deal with a failure of any of these bearings on a
long ride of several thousand miles.
In May 2010 I added a Scotts Steering Damper---I already
had the damper which was on my KLR,
so I just needed to get the mounting kit.
I wish I could remember who sold me this rack----he didn't
make but a handful and I got the last one.
He was from Missouri and sold it to me really cheap.
Really nice---I'm prepping right now for what I hope to be a 5-7,000 mile
ride ????
It will come in handy.
We ate chinese the other night---and look what I found
!!!!!
OK---is you say so.
J
June 17th, 2010
I'm was in Colorado when I got these racks sent to my son's
house-----so I didn't get my usual
UPS girl-----boy was he ugly.
I wasn't going to install the wolfan expedtion saddlebags------but.........
I already had the bags on my 950 so I just had to buy the racks.
While I was scratchin my butt trying to figure out how to put the ride side
rack on
my son Marty had this bolted up before I knew it--man he's catchin' on to
this adventure stuff.
The right one was a little harder as you have to attach a bracket to the subframe--a very good design.
Here is that bracket----the one bolt on the right might
be a pain for you unless you take off your fender......
but..........this very bolt was also used on my dirt bagz and I had welded
the nut on top so it was easy for me,
and I didn't have to remove my fender.
Does this make my ass look fat ???? Well...........a little.
I blue loctited all bolts----I wasn't going to, but when I took my dirt bagz
racks off the bolts were
loose-----except for the one that was gone !!!!!
This is recommended by Mr. Wolfman himself-----for good reason.
Sorry about the KTM hat.
Anyway---the botom line is they are 100% waterproof--which
is nice.
If you order the bags and rack you get a special deal of $399
Here's the link to the bags Wolfman
More To Come