Day 5---February 15th, 2007
San Ignacio to Camp
It was to be a good long ride to day after
a pretty early start
We would travel West over the mountains and across some very fun flat inner bays.
The riding thru here was just simply spectacular.
I had never seen anything like it.
And then the road just quit---luckily we got around it thru some mud.
Out here you better watch where you go--don't just go anywhere as you may sink in bottomless mud and go over the bars.
We ran wide open at times trying not to get
buried and at the same time having a hoot.
Here I am with going across no mans land with the Husky wide open and digging in.
The were many places with thick salt from the retreating sea---this stuff could be like ice.
Once I just let off the throttle in this stuff and the rear end stepped way out--almost a high side.
My expert riding ability (yeh-right)----and complete stupidity was the only thing that saved me !!
We made a side trip to Scorpion Bay where
the whales were doing their thing---however I missed them everytime.
We had a great lunch of fish tacos I do believe and blew out of there going thru the same military check points we
came thru coming in. I video'd the machine guns--and risked having my camera taken.
Out on the sand me and Jeff ran as fast as we could broad sliding left then right all the way across the beach.
Maybe the vest video of the ride
It was much too early to call it a day and
we headed back East over the mountains toward the sea of Cortez
knowing we would be camping-------wherever.
Jeff's saddlebag racks broke completely in 2 pieces.
Duck tape, wire ties, a wrench for a splint, more tape------Mexicanada-------it held.
Our camp was primitive as we found it in
A feast of beef jerky, cold tortillas, takawatees, vienna sausage was had.
We were a little nervous about making a fire where we were at as we heard voices occasionally
and that would give away our position--so we put the lights out and camped incognito.
Day 6---February 16th, 2007
Camp To Mulege
This was a very short day---but a very eventful
day. We rode some unbelievable beautiful mountains
East toward Mulege (Moooo-lah---hay) for you gringos !! We needed cleaning up--we stunk
and had some things to take care of and got us a motel in Mulege where things went very bad for me.
First off--I was sitting on my bed minding
my own business---when this guy crawled up my leg.
Risking life and limb--I did what I suppose the crocodile hunter would do---I grabbed my video camera.
I video'd him crawling up my leg---and when he wasn't looking I flicked him off onto the floor as he tried to scurry off.
He didn't make it very far before I stomped him with my sandals-----------whop--one thin scorpion.
The is a small blonde one-------the most poisonous---I tore the room apart looking for some of his kinfolk.
The video is hilarious to watch--as he creeped up my leg--and then whop.
It wasn't over for me in Mulege
The next morning we were all geared up to pull out after breakfast--and I took a bite out of an apple.
My stomach tried to empty itself immediately right then and there---I wish it had.
I spend the next 3 hours hovering in the corner right beside my bike in the picture above trying to throw up.
I couldn't ride----and I got deathly sick---very quickly--I finally walked up to our room which was still open.
I spied a 5 gallon bucket by the room and hovered over it for another hour.
Now here is where it gets good !!!
I had seen a woman and what I thought was
her daughter cleaning rooms--she went in and out of our room.
When I was feeling my absolute worst she grabbed me and shoved a glass of I don't know what in front of me.
She couldn't speak any English--but let me know she wanted me to drink it all.
I knew I couldn't drink one drop--------but somehow shoved it down.
Now is when the story even gets better !!!
I was white as a sheet and drooling----man
I had to look really bad.
She then pulled me into our room and threw me on my bed and rolled me over on my back.
Her daughter watched intently as her mother rolled my stomach muscles,
all the while spitting out some very fast Spanish that I just couldn't pick up on.
Then she rolls me over on my stomach and squeezed and rolled the skin on my back so hard it hurt.
Bruce came in and told me she wanted me to lay there 10 minutes.
I did----fearing a Spanish tongue lashing from a woman that had a mysterious control over me.
To make this long story short---I felt just fine--almost immediate relief.
We found out she performed some kind of Mexican home remedy on me that few people knew.
I was so happy and gave her a big hug------mucho gracious.
I was flabbergasted I felt so good--but was hesitant to ride.
Ride we did---and I never got sick the rest of the ride.
I will never forget my hotel maid in Mulege---Anna was her name.
Thanks Anna---I will never forget you--an unforgettable experience for me.
Day 7 and 8 February 17th-18th,
Mulege To Loretto
Leaving Mulege it was time to hit the road and get further South To Loretto for the night.
Leaving Loretto the riding starts to get "pretty spectacular"
Maybe the most beautiful canyon in all of Baja
Before we even left to go to Baja we were
told that the road getting to this canyon
was destroyed my Hurricane Juan in October of 2006.
Local knowledge when we got there told us they had gotten it fixed--glad they did.
The big attraction in the canyon was the Indian
Cliff paintings from many many years ago.
The San Javier Mission was on our way---first stop to get a drink tho.
Leading thru the little village of San Javier was this beautiful cobblestone road.
The Mission was the largest of many we visited on this trip.
The paintings in here were so beautiful they
just took my breath
I think most the missions in Baja were built in the 1700's
Leaving the mission we crossed so many rivers I lost count.
If it had been raining we would have been stranded--------not a bad thing !!!
The sun was going down--some big mountain
switch backs were ahead
according to the TOP map in my GPS
We hunted for camp but had a hard time fnding some soft sand to sleep on.
"Kinda spectacular I guess"----------said the GasPipe
"Yeh---Kinda more spectacular--I guess"
A great camp site.
We knew better than to tackle the high mountain switch backs
even using my 250 watt HID headlight.
Other than our neighbors--------5 dead cows--It was great !!
It was hard not to keep staring at the sunset.
But this was our view to the South.
A big chupacobra monster cave.
Day 9 February 19th, 2007
Camp To Todo Santes
This could have been the most spectacular day--------or do I just keep repeating myself ??
We went over man miles of high mountain switch
backs East towards the Sea Of Cortez.
So glad we didn't try to tackle that in the dark.
I probably had a headlight that could have made it safe--but the others didn't.
The Sea Of Cortez finally comes into our view----welcome back !!
This road hugs the coast all the way to La
Paz------you can't go North from here.
The mountains were to rugged to build a road.
We hit some pavement if you want to call it that
when we got close to LaPaz
Our rear tires were almost gone.
We got a nice motel in Todo Santez and had a nice
We did some bike maintenance--air filters and such.
Seems our clothes dryer was keeping John Mark from
sleeping somehow ????
Day 10 February 20th, 2007
Todo Santes to Los Barilles
After a late start waiting on John Mark again----we
and never saw John Mark again.
We waited forever at a turn--he never went
We went North and South looking for him.
After a very long time we left a note at the turn onto a sand road.
But were never to see him again---Our only thought was that he left us and didn't bother to tell us.
He had gas, food, money, a fine bike and could speak Spanish
We knew he would be fine on his own.
And now it was just me and Bruce
Tahlequah---and Indian word meaning "two is enough"
We chased each other over these mountains on some great sand roads.
It took some very careful navigation to get thru.
Today------we would again ride across the
mountains and would see the Pacific ocean
and the Sea Of Cortez in the same day. I had made this route up over the mountains before we left.
We had no idea if we would find our way thru---but find our way thru we did.
It was not just "Kinda Spectacular"--it was full blown spectacular.
Riding with Bruce as long as I have---I've
come to learn he would much rather follow than lead.
Were both used to leading--but if you have a good leader and you just leave him alone,
it can be so realxing just following along with not to many worries and stop and take
all the pictures you want. Bruce did this often---I'm so glad he did as he took so many great pictures.
All the pictures I am showing here are his--------as for the first time I never took a camera on this trip.
I was always videoing and this made a great combination.
Everything was going so much easier and smoother
A totally relaxing ride--as we came to the Sea Of Cortez
near Los Frailes.
We rode North right on the coast to this nice town where we got a Motel
The view from the porch of our Motel
There was a heated pool and a bar right in front of our room.
Things were pretty nice and quiet here--till
those nasty smelley dirt bikers showed up.
Scaring the women and children--making them cry !!
Tearin' up the flowers and tree shrubs !!
Once again----Bruce was a very happy guy !!
On To Day 11